KL Food

Flavours of Malaysia. Truly Asian.

Rajesh, a lawyer by profession, loves food.

THANK YOU: Many thanks to my Malaysian Duku Club—Indran, Shanti, Guna, and Suganthi—for being my partners-in-crime on this culinary adventure. Special thanks to Karen, who not only helped with research and pictures but also tolerated my grumpiness during our spirited food debates and café-hopping escapades. A nod to my Samsung phone, which bravely captured countless food shots before nearly drowning in sambal, and to ChatGPT, my ever-patient co-conspirator, for helping me hone this piece. DISCLAIMER: Every word is deliberate, every calorie justified, and every experience entirely my own—no regrets, no diets, and definitely no leftovers.

For over two decades, Malaysia has been my second home. I built a modest career in law, forged lifelong friendships, and fell head over heels for its food. Malaysians welcomed me warmly, and I like to think I repaid their kindness in full with my unwavering admiration for their cuisine.

Naturally, I became the go-to guy for my Kerala friends (and their family and friends) whenever they planned trips to Malaysia. One such friend was Sandeep (real name), who roped me into designing his family trip to Kuala Lumpur (or KL, as it is affectionately called). Together, we mapped out an unforgettable culinary odyssey (or so I thought then) to taste their way through Malaysian culture. “Nasi Lemak, the Malaysian national dish, must be the first to be tried,” I had insisted.

Around 7 AM, the morning after their arrival, Sandeep called with unmistakable urgency. “Rajesh, a slight problem.” “What?” I grumbled, half-asleep. “Amma wants Idli, Appa wants Dosa.” “Seriously?” I was suddenly wide awake, detecting what I still consider the lowest form of treachery. “Oh, but you still want Nasi Lemak, right?” I held on to a trace of hope that he would not join the Judases’ club overnight. “Maybe another time. Now that I’m hungry, I want two Idlis, a crispy Vada, and Filter Coffee,” he declared unapologetically.

I shouldn’t have been surprised. Sandeep’s detour proved, once again, that some souls (read Malayali travellers) are forever drawn to the comfort of familiar cuisine, no matter where they go.

If you can’t travel without your Idlis and Dosas, happy hunting! Plenty of places in KL serve them, but I’ll keep that to myself—just for the fun of it.

For the others—the curious lot who see food as a ticket to a new world—here are 10 (plus 1) ways to experience the rich and diverse flavours of Malaysia in KL:

Before you start, you need to know this:

Malaysian cuisine is a vibrant fusion of flavours shaped by its multicultural heritage. The country’s food scene is defined by three major influences—Malay, Chinese, and Indian—each bringing its own unique touch.

Malay cuisine is about bold flavours (rich spices and coconut milk) and balancing sweet, spicy, and savoury. Must-try dishes include Nasi Lemak (fragrant coconut rice with sambal), Rendang (slow-cooked spiced meat), and Satay (grilled skewered meat with peanut sauce). Chinese cuisine relies on stir-frying, steaming, and roasting techniques, delivering smoky, umami-rich flavours. A standout dish is Char Kuey Teow (stir-fried flat rice noodles with prawns and egg). Indian cuisine, influenced by South and North Indian flavours, is known for its spices, curries, and bread—like Roti Canai (flaky flatbread with curry) and Banana Leaf Rice (rice with assorted curries).

Over time, these traditions intertwined and gave rise to two distinctly Malaysian cuisines: Nyonya (Peranakan) cuisine, which blends Chinese and Malay influences, and Mamak cuisine, which is rooted in Indian Muslim heritage. Laksa (spicy noodle soup) is a signature Nyonya dish, while typical Mamak dishes include Maggi Goreng (stir-fried instant noodles) and Nasi Kandar (rice with assorted curries).

KL is an eating paradise, home to hundreds (if not thousands) of incredible eateries spanning every cuisine imaginable. No single guide can comprehensively cover it all, nor should it try. This piece is crafted for the foodie visitor to KL—someone who wants a bird's-eye view of the local culinary scene, an overall experience that captures its rich, diverse, and delicious food culture.

01 Remember, Nasi Lemak Comes First. Every Time.

Nasi Lemak (Rice with Basic Accompaniments)

Another "No Frills" Nasi Lemak

Nasi Lemak is Malaysia’s national dish—an irresistible symphony of flavours and textures featuring coconut milk-infused rice served with spicy sambal (spicy, slightly sweet, chilli paste), crispy anchovies, roasted peanuts, chopped cucumber, and often a boiled or fried egg. But its true power lies in its adaptability—every vendor has a signature twist, whether it’s extra-creamy rice, sambal that sets your soul on fire, or a side of fried chicken that deserves its own fan club. It’s a staple breakfast for everyone, from busy office workers grabbing a quick fix at roadside stalls to café-goers savouring gourmet versions.

The literal meaning of "Nasi Lemak" in Malay is "rich rice"—where "nasi" means rice, and "lemak" refers to richness or creaminess, typically from coconut milk. The name aptly describes the dish’s signature creamy rice, cooked with coconut milk and pandan leaves for extra aroma.

One popular legend attributes the creation of Nasi Lemak to Mak Kuntum, a young girl who lived with her widowed mother in a small village. One day, while cooking, she accidentally spilt coconut milk into a pot of rice. When her mother tasted it, she was delighted by its flavour and eagerly shared the discovery with their neighbours. Intrigued, the villagers gathered to try the accidental creation, and word quickly spread. Over time, they began pairing the flavorful rice with fried anchovies, sambal, peanuts, and other side dishes—and Nasi Lemak was born.

Village Park Restaurant (Damansara Utama)

Nasi Lemak with Fried Chicken

And when it comes to the best Nasi Lemak? Debates are endless. Every Malaysian has a favourite, often tied to nostalgia, a particular street vendor, or personal taste. One great place to have Nasi Lemak is Village Park Restaurant (at Damansara Utama), a popular choice—evident from the long queues and packed eating halls (yes, multiple halls) from the moment it opens at 6:30 AM to its closing at 5:30 PM. As expected, the rice was rich and creamy, the sambal was near perfect (slightly on the sweeter side), and the add-ons—Fried Chicken and Beef Rendang—were simply out of this world. I could write an entire thesis on Fried Chicken—how the crust shattered with every bite to reveal the juicy meat underneath, and Beef Rendang—how the beef chunks melted effortlessly in my mouth. But instead of 80,000 words, here’s my verdict: try it.

Nasi Lemak with Beef Rendang

Teh Limau Ais (Iced Lime Tea)

I like to wash down my Nasi Lemak with a super hot Teh Tarik (more about it later), but a Teh Limau Ais is equally good, especially when it's hot outside. Teh Limau Ais (Iced Lime Tea) is black tea served over ice with a squeeze of fresh lime and just the right amount of sweetness. It’s perfect for Malaysia’s sweltering afternoons—cool, citrusy, and deeply refreshing. Like any self-respecting Malaysian, I, too, give it a dramatic straw swirl before the first sip. Does it change the taste? No clue. But it seems to be the law of the land.

02 Wake up to Kaya Toast or Roti Canai, or Both.

Mornings in Malaysia are a daily test of your decision-making skills. Do you start with the buttery crispness of Kaya Toast or the flaky perfection of Roti Canai? For the sake of your sanity, I’ll set Nasi Lemak aside from this battle—for now—and focus on the two titans of the Kopitiam and Mamak worlds.

Ho Kow Hainam Kopitiam (Chinatown)

Toast slathered with Kaya (and Butter)

Kaya Toast with Soft-boiled Eggs

Cham, the Kopi-Teh Concoction

KAYA TOAST

Kaya Toast is a Hainanese legacy that Malaysians have happily claimed as their own. The Hainanese community, originally Chinese immigrants known for their mastery of kopitiam (traditional coffee shop) culture, perfected this simple yet magical dish.

It starts with two slices of thin, crispy toast slathered with kaya—a rich coconut jam made from eggs, sugar, coconut milk, and fragrant pandan leaves. Then comes the butter—a thick, unapologetic slab that melts ever so slightly between the warm toast, creating the right balance of sweetness and saltiness.

A real Kaya Toast experience is never complete without soft-boiled eggs served in a tiny saucer, looking suspiciously undercooked. Don’t panic—this is exactly how it’s meant to be. Crack them open, hit them with a dash of soy sauce and white pepper powder, mix it all up, and dunk your toast right in. Try drinking the egg mixture straight from the plate with a satisfying slurp.

You must finish the meal with Cham—a Hainanese-inspired concoction that blends the slightly bitter depth of Kopi (Malaysian-style coffee) with the smooth and aromatic richness of Teh (milk tea). I know what you’re thinking—but trust me, the result is bold yet creamy, strong yet soothing, and dangerously addictive. Typically served with evaporated or condensed milk, cham ties everything together, making for the ultimate kopitiam breakfast experience.

If you want to experience one of the best Kaya Toast breakfasts in town, head to Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam, a legendary Chinatown spot serving locals since 1956. But be warned—get there by 7:30 AM unless you enjoy standing in a long queue questioning your life choices.

Original Penang Kayu Nasi Kandar at Nu Sentral

Roti Canai (with the Classic Dips)

Teh Tarik

ROTI CANAI

Roti Canai, quite like our Porotta, is a flatbread introduced by Tamil immigrants. It’s a masterclass in textures—crispy on the outside, chewy and stretchy on the inside. Watching a skilled Mamak chef flip and stretch the dough before frying it to golden perfection is a hearty Malaysian morning ritual.

You can order any number of dishes, from Fried Chicken to Beef Rendang to Sambal Sotong (spicy squid), to go with your Roti Canai, but the classic dips are dhal curry—a mildly spiced, thick lentil curry—and sambal—a spicy, slightly sweet chilli paste.

And, of course, no proper roti canai experience is complete without Teh Tarik—Malaysia’s national drink and unofficial performance art. This “pulled tea” is poured back and forth between two cups from a height, creating a dramatic frothy top. It’s creamy, sweet, and an impeccable way to cap off a hearty breakfast.

Now, don’t ask me to choose between Roti Canai and Porotta—they’re very similar yet different, like a sibling rivalry with a plot twist. As a proud Malayali, I’ll vote for my porotta, but only because it’s the bread I grew up with. Every time I take a bite of Roti Canai, I feel like I’m cheating on my first love—without the guilt, that is.

You could walk into any Mamak stall and, invariably, have an excellent roti canai experience (with the added "making" drama). Since I stayed around KL Sentral, I chose Original Penang Kayu Nasi Kandar at Nu Sentral.

So, what would you wake up to—buttery Kaya Toast or a flaky Roti Canai? Or will you, like me, take the easy route and go for both?

03 Try Both Laksas and Take a Side.

Asam Laksa (left) and Curry Laksa

Laksa is truly a soul-warming bowl where fragrant broths meet slurp-worthy noodles. While its exact origins are debated, it remains a beloved dish across Malaysia and beyond, enjoyed everywhere, from humble roadside stalls to upscale restaurants. A beautiful fusion of Malay and Chinese influences, Laksa exists in many forms, each deeply tied to its region’s flavours and traditions.

The two most famous varieties—Curry Laksa and Asam Laksa—are so distinct that every Laksa lover has a favourite. Curry Laksa is a creamy, coconut milk-based delight with yellow noodles or vermicelli bathed in a thick, slightly spicy broth. It’s typically topped with prawns, shredded chicken, tofu puffs, and a dollop of sambal for that extra kick. Asam Laksa, on the other hand, offers an entirely different experience. Its tangy, tamarind-infused fish broth—made with mackerel, lemongrass, chilli, and sweet prawn paste—delivers a bold, sour-sweet punch. Thick rice noodles soak up the intensely flavorful broth, while pineapple, cucumber, and mint provide a refreshing contrast.

Like most dishes mentioned here, Laksa can be found at eateries throughout KL. I visited Ah Cheng Laksa, a popular chain with multiple outlets, and tried junior bowls of both laksas—an easy way to compare them side by side and pick a favourite. After tasting both, I found myself drawn to Asam Laksa—the tangy broth, the bold flavours, and the satisfying crunch from the fresh toppings won me over.

So, which team are you on—Curry Laksa or Asam Laksa? I say try both and take a side!

PS. One variety I’m eager to try is Sarawak Laksa. I hear it features a complex broth that’s neither too rich nor too tangy—seemingly a marriage between Curry and Asam Laksas.

Ah Cheng Laksa, Nu Sentral

Ah Cheng Laksa, Nu Sentral (Interior View)

04 Snack on Satay, Rojak, and Kuih.

KL's food scene isn't always about big meals—it’s also about the small indulgences, the quick bites that keep you going between adventures. Whether you're strolling through Jalan Alor, wandering around Kampung Baru, or ducking into a neighbourhood food court, there's always something tempting to nibble on. For a true taste of Malaysia in bite-sized portions, start with these three street food icons: Satay, Rojak, and Kuih.

Satay (Chicken) with Peanut Sauce, etc

Indian Rojak (Pasembur)

SATAY

Think of dipping a skewer of marinated chicken (or beef or lamb), grilled over open flames and basted with a secret blend of spices, into a thick, nutty peanut sauce—rich with ground peanuts, creamy coconut milk, and the right touch of chilli heat. Take a bite, then follow it up with cool cucumber and crisp raw onions for contrast, or enjoy a piece of Ketupat (compressed rice cake) to soak up every last drop of that luscious sauce. Each bite delivers a burst of smoky, savoury goodness, balanced by the subtle sweetness of the marinade.

That’s Satay for you—juicy, messy, and absolutely addictive Malaysian street food. You’ll find it everywhere in KL, from bustling night markets to roadside stalls, but for my fix, I headed to Sate Kajang Haji Samuri (Damansara Utama outlet)—a legendary spot known for serving some of the best Satay in town. And they did not let my sky-high expectations down. Not one bit.

ROJAK

Sweet, spicy, crunchy, and messy—Rojak is a dish that doesn’t play by the rules, yet somehow, it all comes together beautifully. The name itself means "mix" in Malay, and that’s precisely what it is—a glorious (and chaotic) medley of ingredients coated in a sauce that defies expectations.

There are two main types of Rojak. Fruit Rojak is a refreshing blend of juicy pineapple, crisp jicama (crunchy, slightly sweet root vegetable), cool cucumber, and unripe mango, all tossed in a thick, dark shrimp paste dressing that’s sweet, salty, and funky. Then there’s Indian Rojak (Pasembur)—a hearty mix of crispy fritters, tofu, hard-boiled eggs, cuttlefish, and crunchy prawn crackers, all generously drizzled with a rich, spiced peanut sauce.

I went for the Indian Rojak from Hassan Rojak, a humble yet popular street vendor at Seapark (Petaling Jaya), and let’s say—it was a mess worth making.

Various Types of Kuih

Ondeh-Ondeh

KUIH

These bite-sized sweet delights come in all shapes, colours, and textures, each telling a story of tradition.

There’s Ondeh-Ondeh—tiny glutinous rice balls bursting with sweet, molten palm sugar coated in freshly grated coconut for the perfect balance of chew and crunch. Then there’s Kuih Talam, a two-layered treat where creamy, slightly salty coconut milk custard sits atop a soft, pandan-infused base, blending sweet and savoury in every bite. And, of course, Kuih Lapis—soft, chewy, gloriously striped, peeling apart layer by layer. The list doesn’t stop there—Pulut Kaya, Kuih Ubi Sago, Pulut Inti, Kuih Ubi, and so many more, each as delightful as the next.

I got my Kuih from A'Han Nyonya Kuih, a charming little spot in Seapark, Petaling Jaya—where one bite of that soft, chewy, coconut-laced goodness is never enough. You can also get freshly made traditional Kuih from Ahmad’s Kuih Stall (Jalan Raja Alang, Kampung Baru), a roadside stall with an endless selection, and Chow Kit Market.

Pisang Goreng

Bak Kwa

Chicken Curry Puff

Snacking in KL, however, doesn’t end with the Satay-Rojak-Kuih trio.

There’s plenty more, but here are three other must-haves: Pisang Goreng—crispy, golden-fried banana fritters with a caramelised crunch and a soft, super-sweet centre—from Jalan Thambypillai, Brickfields; Bak Kwa—smoky, sweet, slightly charred Chinese-style barbecued pork jerky that’s irresistibly chewy—from Bee Cheng Hiang, Petaling Street; and extra-large Chicken Curry Puff—flaky, buttery pastry filled with fragrant, spicy curried potato and chicken—from Homi, Mid Valley Megamall.

I do owe some others—Apam Balik (crispy, fluffy peanut pancake), Keropok Lekor (chewy, deep-fried fish crackers), Popiah (spring rolls bursting with turnip, carrots, and sometimes seafood), and Chee Cheong Fun (silky steamed rice noodle rolls doused in sweet sauce, soy sauce, or curry)—an apology. I promise to make amends for this lack of acknowledgement, but for now, consider this a humble nod to their deliciousness.

05 Gobble Up an Expansive Banana Leaf Lunch at Little India.

Little India (Night View)

KL's Little India is a vibrant tapestry of colours, sounds, and, most enticingly, flavours. Amidst the bustling streets adorned with vivid textiles and the scent of fresh jasmine, the air is rich with the aroma of spices and sizzling delicacies. Diverse eateries line the avenues, each offering a culinary journey into (mostly) South Indian cuisine.

Banana Leaf Meal

Non-Veg Tray at Vishal

One quintessential experience here is indulging in a Banana Leaf Meal, much like our own Sadya.

As you settle in, a fresh green banana leaf is laid before you—the canvas for the feast. A gentle sprinkle of water on the leaf marks the beginning of this gastronomic ritual. The meal begins with a hearty mound of steaming white rice at the centre, bathed in a choice of flavorful gravies and encircled by a vibrant array of accompaniments—crisp poppadoms, tangy pickles, creamy yoghurt, and a variety of spiced vegetables. But that’s merely the opening act.

Then come the trays—first, the non-veg tray, brimming with everything from Chettinad Chicken Varuval and Prawn Sambal to Sura Puttu (a fish dish). Hot on its heels follows the veg tray, offering a mix of familiar favourites like Keerai Coconut Poriyal and dishes like Sambal Petai, an acquired taste for the uninitiated. You pick what you want, and the feast unfolds.

The undisputed star is the Chettinad Chicken Curry, famed for its deep, complex spice profile and rich, velvety texture. The tender chicken, bathed in this robust gravy, pairs exquisitely with the rice and sides.

Eating with your hands enhances the experience—each bite feels like a symphony of textures, from the rice's warmth to the curries' bold spice. And when you think you’re done, a steaming cup of rasam arrives—tangy, peppery, and comforting, acting as both digestif and final flourish to this grand meal.

Banana leaf dining—if you can overlook the "minor" fact that you’re possibly consuming a week’s worth of calories in a single sitting—is an immersive experience, a celebration of tradition, hospitality, and the culinary heritage of Malaysia’s Indian community.

Restaurant Vishal (Exterior)

Dining Hall at Restaurant Vishal

Two Chettinad restaurants—Vishal and Sri Vishalatchi—sitting at the edge of Little India are my favourites. I used to alternate between them, but lately, I tend to prefer Vishal. Unlike its sibling, which has gone a notch upmarket, Vishal has stayed true to its mess-style seating and old-world charm—the ambience I prefer to enjoy my Banana Leaf Meal in.

06 Feast on the Best of Chinese at Petaling Street.

A Typical Table at a Petaling Street Diner

A Chinatown Alley with Merdeka 118 (the Tallest Building in Malaysia) in the Background

Another View from Chinatown

For someone who last visited Petaling Street (a.k.a. Chinatown—though technically, Chinatown covers a much larger area) many years ago—back when haggling for a “Rolex” that would stop working before you got home was a sport, dodgy DVD stalls and questionably authentic designer bags ruled the street, and you had to pretend not to notice the over-sized rodents scurrying past your feet—I can only improvise on Bilal from Big B: "Petaling Street pazhaya Petaling Street alla!" (Petaling Street is no longer the same old Petaling Street!)

Established in the 19th century, Petaling Street was the heart of KL’s Chinese settlement, built by early Cantonese and Hakka immigrants who played a crucial role in the city’s tin mining boom. The area flourished as a commercial hub, with traders selling everything from herbal medicines to textiles. Over time, it became infamous for knockoff goods, bustling street vendors, and late-night shopping.

But today, it has evolved far beyond that. Think mood lighting, better hygiene, Instagrammable vibes, and, most importantly, a stronger-than-ever food scene. While the old-world charm is still intact—red lanterns swaying, hawkers shouting, woks sizzling—the experience has transformed into something truly special.

Char Kuey Teow (with a Sprinkle of Cut Green Chilli)

Hokkien Mee

Prawn Fried Rice

Claypot Chicken Rice

Wanton Mee

Yong Tau Foo (Stuffed Tofu and Vegetables)

Chicken Rice

Ipoh Old Town White Coffee

Kopi O Butter (Butter Coffee)

Kopi O Butter (Butter Coffee) - Another View

Mee Siam with Fried Chicken

Iced Ipoh Coffee

You’ll find some of the best Chinese delicacies here. Kim Lian Kee, widely credited with popularising Hokkien Mee (thick stir-fried noodles) in KL, still serves its iconic dish, coated in rich, dark soy sauce and loaded with crispy pork lard. For those who love the smoky magic of a well-seasoned wok, Char Kuey Teow (stir-fried flat rice noodles) with prawns, egg, and Chinese sausage delivers the perfect balance of heat and flavour.

Meanwhile, Heun Kee’s Claypot Chicken Rice is a masterpiece of tender chicken, salted fish, and caramelised rice, all slow-cooked over charcoal for that signature crispy crust at the bottom.

Good Chinese food in KL isn’t limited to Chinatown. If you’re craving Wanton Mee (springy egg noodles with dumplings and barbecued pork), Annie 1 in Damansara Utama is a solid choice. O&S in Seapark is a haven for Yong Tau Foo (tofu and vegetables stuffed with fish paste) and some of the best Char Kuey Teow in town. For a taste of Mee Siam (spicy stir-fried rice vermicelli) and Butter Coffee (an experience in itself), Oriental Kopi is a must-visit. And if it’s Fried Rice you’re after, Uncle Soon (Starling Mall) does it best. Still, Petaling Street remains your best bet if you want to experience a bit of everything in one vibrant, bustling setting—especially at night.

So, know this: Petaling Street is now less about dodgy deals and more about delicious meals—while still maintaining the soul of its storied past.

07 Have the Full Range of Mamak Shop Experience.

Nasi Kandar Plate (Less Crowded)

Chicken Murtabak

No visit to Malaysia is complete without experiencing a Mamak shop—the iconic eatery typically run by Indian Muslims. Mamak refers to the Indian Muslim community in Malaysia, whose ancestors arrived from South India (mainly Tamil Nadu) during the British colonial era. Scattered across the country, from bustling city centres to sleepy small towns, these eateries are beloved for their affordability, fast service, and lively atmosphere. Most operate 24/7, making them the ultimate go-to for a late-night supper or a post-party refuel.

While Mamak shops serve a variety of dishes, the undisputed star of Mamak cuisine is Nasi Kandar. Originating from Penang, this dish has humble beginnings—once sold by hawkers who carried rice (nasi) in large baskets (kandar) balanced on a wooden pole. It remains a Malaysian favourite: steamed rice drenched in spicy curries and paired with side dishes like crispy Fried Chicken, Beef Rendang, Squid Sambal, and tender okra. The magic of Nasi Kandar lies in flooding the rice with multiple curries, thus creating an explosion of flavours in every bite.

But Nasi Kandar is only the beginning. Mamak shops are treasure troves of comfort food: Roti Canai (flaky flatbread with curry), Mee Goreng Mamak (spicy fried noodles packed with potatoes, eggs and tofu), and Ayam Goreng (deep-fried, spice-marinated chicken). And then there’s Murtabak—a stuffed, pan-fried flatbread. Filled with minced meat (chicken, beef, or mutton), onions, eggs, and fragrant spices, it’s griddled to lustrous perfection and served with pickled onions and curry.

Bukit Bintang Outlet of Hameediya, the Oldest Nasi Kandar in Malaysia

Ayam Bawang (Onion Chicken)

Fried Squid

Curry Prawn and Fish Curry

I made my rounds at some legendary Mamak spots—Mahbub in Bangsar, Original Penang Kayu Nasi Kandar at Nu Sentral, and Hameediyah, Malaysia’s oldest Nasi Kandar establishment (since 1907) at Bukit Bintang.

The biggest challenge at a Mamak shop? Resisting the urge to order half the menu. At Hameediyah, I had their famous Nasi Kandar with Ayam Bawang (onion chicken), served with cabbage and pickled chilli. At Original Penang Kayu Nasi Kandar, I feasted on Mee Goreng Mamak and Roti Canai, washing it down with an iced Sirap Bandung (evaporated or condensed milk flavoured with rose syrup).

Whether you’re after a late-night feast, a quick snack, or a place to chill over endless cups of Teh Tarik, this Malaysian institution is the place to be.

Mee Goreng Mamak

Nasi Kandar Plate (Crowded)

Iced Sirap Bandung

08 Walk Down Jalan Alor for Chicken Wings, Ikan Bakar, and Everything in Between.

The Weekend Crowd at Jalan Alor

Some locals consider Jalan Alor too touristy (and pricey), but it still delivers on taste, ambience, and variety. Whether you’re here for a feast or to soak in the energy, it’s an experience every food lover should have in KL. From a food perspective, I see it as an extension of Petaling Street—a place where flavours collide and the city’s culinary spirit comes alive.

By day, Jalan Alor looks like any regular street, but once the sun sets, it transforms into a lively food paradise. Neon signs flicker to life, plastic chairs and tables spill onto the sidewalks, and the air becomes thick with the mouth-watering aromas of grilled meats, sizzling woks, and fragrant spices. The street is packed with foodies worldwide, drawn by its sheer variety and infectious energy.

You can find almost everything here—from Chinese seafood feasts and Thai-style grilled meats to Malaysian classics.

Chicken Wings

Ikan Bakar (Grilled Fish)

Jalan Alor isn’t merely about classic street food—it’s a theatrical experience where live cooking is the norm. Almost every stall has woks blazing, skewers sizzling, and chefs tossing noodles mid-air, giving the whole street an electrifying feel.

Treat yourself to a plate of juicy BBQ Chicken Wings from Wong Ah Wah—a must-try. These legendary wings are charred to perfection, with crispy skin and tender, smoky meat glazed in a slightly sweet and savoury sauce. If you’re a drinker, they pair perfectly with an ice-cold beer (statutory warning: consumption of alcohol is injurious to health).

Another must-have is Ikan Bakar (grilled fish)—wrapped in banana leaves, marinated with sambal and aromatic spices, and grilled over an open flame. The stingray (pari) is a top pick, offering a deliciously flaky texture and a bold, smoky taste.

Pork Meat BBQ

Bak Kut Teh (Pork Ribs in Herbal Broth) Stall

Sotong Panggang (Grilled Octopus in Sauce)

Truth be told, choosing what to eat here is no easy task. The menus are as endless as the stalls lining the street. My advice? Pick a restaurant at random, sit where you like (as long as you make sure it’s on a plastic chair on the road to soak in that sweaty, bustling vibe), and order whatever catches your fancy—whether it’s Salted Egg Crab (rich and creamy), Lok Lok (skewered meats, seafood, and vegetables dipped in boiling broth or deep-fried), Otah-Otah (spiced fish paste grilled in banana leaves), Chili Lala (stir-fried clams with fragrant chilli paste, garlic, and lemongrass), or steamed green-lipped mussels, generously bathed in garlic.

09 Cool Off with ABC and Cendol.

Malaysia has two perfect antidotes to KL’s relentless heat (though to be fair, even the worst of it is more pleasant than Kerala’s peak summer): ice-cold, flavour-packed desserts—Ais Batu Campur (ABC) and Cendol.

Ais Batu Campur

Cendol

Auntie Peggy posing with Cendol

While ABC (a.k.a. Ais Kacang) may seem like shaved ice with various syrups and toppings, it’s much more. It’s a vibrant, textural masterpiece. The ice is finely shaved, as light and fluffy as fresh snow, drenched in colourful syrups—rose, sarsaparilla, or pandan. Beneath (and on top of) the ice, delightful surprises await: soft red beans, chewy grass jelly, sweet corn, and roasted peanuts. Sometimes, it’s even topped with a scoop of creamy ice cream or a drizzle of condensed milk. It is an absolute riot of flavours, colours, and textures, with each bite offering a new adventure.

On the other hand, Cendol is a more understated but equally beloved classic. Think velvety coconut milk (lightly salted to balance the richness) infused with the deep caramel notes of thick gula melaka (palm sugar syrup) over shaved ice, with jade-green pandan noodles added to the mix. These smooth, slippery, and chewy noodles contrast beautifully with the slightly grainy texture of the shaved ice. Some variations include red beans for extra depth, but cendol is a simple yet deeply satisfying treat at its core.

These icy wonders are available throughout KL, and most are pretty delicious—but Auntie Peggy’s Classic in Taman Selera, Petaling Jaya, stands out. And Auntie Peggy is always around, cheerfully reminding customers that her stall has been around for 65 years and proudly boasting that she uses only gula melaka—a premium-quality jaggery sourced from Melaka—for the richest, most authentic flavour.

10 Sneak the King and Queen of Fruits into Your Hotel Room If You Dare.

Durian (With the Shell)

The Durian Flesh (Packed for Sale)

Mangosteen (the Leathery Shell and Fruit Segments)

Notice at a Hotel Lobby

Durian and Mangosteen are the undisputed royalty of Malaysian fruits.

Durian could pass for Jackfruit’s rebellious cousin—spikier, smellier, and controversial. You can only love or hate Durian—there’s no middle ground. Some people swear by its rich, custard-like texture and complex sweetness, calling it the "King of Fruits", while others react as if they’ve walked into a room of fermented onions and gym socks. Ardent fans claim each bite is buttery and creamy, like a mix of vanilla custard and caramelised onions, with a faint alcoholic note from its natural fermentation. The flesh melts in your mouth—assuming you haven’t already bolted in the opposite direction.

Conversely, Mangosteen is "the Queen" who rules gracefully—no drama, no controversy, just pure delight. The shell is thick and slightly leathery, with a deep purple hue that cracks open with a satisfying pop to reveal delicate, juicy, floral and snow-white fruit segments nestled inside. It is sweet, slightly tangy, and incredibly refreshing. The flesh, like that of durian, melts in your mouth, except that this time, no one's fleeing the scene.

A sure place to find the King and Queen is Jalan Alor. Look for roadside durian trucks loaded with the finest varieties from Pahang and Penang during the season. Mangosteens are often sold alongside them.

The King and Queen they may be, but many hotels have strict bans—and nosy door attendants trained to detect their entry. Can't fault them too much - Durian’s unmistakable stench infiltrates air vents, carpets, and anything within a fifty-meter radius, while Mangosteen’s inky juice leaves an equally damning trail—on bedsheets, towels, and even your fingers. And if you do manage a stealthy smuggle into your room, good luck covering your tracks. The moment you crack them open, the stink seeps into every corner, and the stains stay put - shouting conclusive evidence that stands in any court. When the hotel staff come knocking, a deep cleaning fee will be the least of your worries.

So, go ahead and savour Malaysia’s two most iconic fruits where they belong—out in the open, far from hotel carpets.

10+1: Surrender to Sensory Overload at a Ramadan Bazaar.

During the fasting month, the local streets come alive with the irresistible aromas of sizzling satay, bubbling curries, and freshly grilled seafood. Enter the Ramadan Bazaar—a food haven where the air is thick with the scent of spices, and the most challenging part isn’t finding something delicious but deciding what not to eat.

These bazaars pop up everywhere, offering just about everything. Some stand out more than others. The Wangsa Maju bazaar, stretching nearly 500 meters, was one of the longest in the country this year. Putrajaya's massive bazaar, with around 300 stalls, was the largest, drawing crowds from all over. Then there are the iconic city favourites, like TTDI and Kampung Baru, where locals and tourists flock for legendary eats.

Unlike a typical food market, Ramadan bazaars are all about takeaway—people come here to pick up food to bring home for breaking fast. There are generally no sit-down areas, just endless stalls of freshly made dishes, each more tempting than the last.

Nasi Kerabu (ready to be served)

Ayam Percik

Ayam Madu (Honey Chicken)

Ayam Goreng (Fried Chicken)

Ayam Panggang (Grilled Chicken)

Ayam Percik, slathered in a smoky coconut-spiced marinade, glistens on the grill. Murtabak, stuffed with spiced meat and egg, sizzles on the griddle, while massive pots of Bubur Lambuk—a comforting, spice-laden rice porridge—are ladled out to eager customers. If you are diving into Malay cuisine, Rendang (slow-cooked, spice-rich meat) is a must. Whether you choose beef, chicken, or lamb, the tender, flavour-packed goodness is worth every bite. And then there’s Nasi Kerabu, the striking blue rice dish that looks almost too pretty to eat (but trust me, you’ll want to). It's a full-on flavour explosion when paired with grilled meats, salted egg, fresh herbs, and a fiery dollop of sambal.

For those with a sweet tooth, Ramadan bazaars never disappoint. There’s Tepung Pelita, a creamy coconut and pandan dessert served in delicate banana leaf cups; Kuih Lompat Tikam, a vibrant coconut pudding; and the ever-refreshing Air Katira, a cooling drink of basil seeds, dates, and milk—perfect after a long day of fasting.

But beyond the food, the atmosphere is what makes these bazaars unique. Families, friends, and even strangers exchange recommendations over sizzling grills and steaming rice. There’s an unspoken camaraderie—everyone’s here for the same reason: to grab the best food before it runs out.

So, if you find yourself in Malaysia during Ramadan, forget dinner plans at a restaurant. Head to a bazaar, follow the longest queues (trust me, they always lead to the best food) and prepare for an evening of pure indulgence—before taking your feast home for a hearty buka puasa (breaking fast).

Nasi Kerabu (Blue Rice) with Sides

Random Dishes from a Malay Stall

However, don’t worry too much if you can’t make it to KL during Ramadan—you won’t miss out on these delights. Many of the dishes found at the bazaars are available year-round across Kuala Lumpur, including in places like Kampung Baru Food Court and Central Market, where stalls serve up all the classics without the Ramadan rush.

For an excellent Rendang experience, head to Rendang Tok Mak Nik in Kampung Baru or Madam Kwan’s at their multiple outlets. If you're craving Nasi Kerabu, Warisan Nasi Kerabu Tumis in Kampung Baru and Kelantan Delights at Avenue K serve some of the best. For Ayam Percik, try the smoky, spice-infused versions at Restoran Jaring in Kota Damansara or Sambal Hijau in Kampung Sungai Penchala. When it comes to Asam Pedas, a fiery, tamarind-based fish curry, you can’t go wrong with Asam Pedas Claypot Melaka in Kampung Baru or Ikan Bakar Bellamy, tucked behind Istana Negara.

Final Bites

Partners in Crime (R-L): Suganthi, Guna, Indran, Shanti and Yours Truly

Now, to wrap this rather lengthy piece up—whether you’re feasting at a legendary Nasi Kandar spot, navigating the smoky grills of a Ramadan bazaar, indulging in street eats at Petaling Street, or digging into a classic Nasi Lemak, KL is a food lover’s playground. The city’s culinary scene is as diverse as its people, blending bold flavours, time-honoured traditions, and an undeniable passion for good eats.

So, go hungry, be adventurous, and don’t be afraid to get your hands messy.

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